Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
